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AREA DESCRIPTION
The relief of Pamir is characterized by a combination of mountain ranges in sub-breadth and meridian directions. In the north breadth Zaalai Ridge achieves in Lenin Peak of 7134 m. at average height of a range of 6000 m. To the south from Zaalai Range meridian ridges are stretched (from the west to the east): Academy of sciences, Zulumart and Sarykolski, dividing pools of Tarim and Amu Darya rivers. The ridge of the Academy of sciences reaches the maximal height in Communism Peak (7495 m - the supreme point of the CIS). On character of a relief Zaalai Range concerns to the western Pamir. For this type of relief are characteristic forms of sharply dismembered high-mountainous relief. Excess of ranges above the bottoms of valleys achieve 2000-3500 m. In shape of mountains naked rocks and taluses dominate.
Congelation. In Zaalai Range the largest glacier is Big Saukdara (25 km). For some glaciers are characteristic periodic fast motions for few kilometers downwards by valleys with speeds up to 100 m per day –for example, Lenin glacier.
Relief of Lenin Peak. Lenin peak (exact height - 7134,3 m) dominates over all central site of Zaalai Range and is well observed in various points of Alai ridge and Alai valley. It is well seen also from the south, from coast of lake Karakul and, certainly, from all high panoramic points of East and Southwest Pamir. Actually, the site of Zaalai Range concerns to Lenin peak from pass Krylenko (5820 ì) from the east up to top Razdelnaya (6148 m) in the west. The nearest neighbors on a ridge: from the west - peak of Unity (Yedinstva) (6673 m), further Kyzyl - Agyn (6679 m) and Korgenevskoy Peak (6005 m), and from the east – Dzerjinski Peak (6713 m), Krasin Peak (5986 m) and Tsurupa Peak (5845 m). Both northern and southern slopes of Lenin Peak are covered with glaciers and powerful thicknesses of firn and snows. It is the main unit of a congelation in Zaalai Range, one of the most powerful in Pamir.
Only on northern side there are 53 glaciers in length more than 2 km and with general area 527 km2. The same wide glacier goes down from northern slopes of Lenin Peak in the extent of 7-8 km. The circus of this glacier merging from two branches, limited from the east by long branching ridge leaving on the north by Ice Cape Range - spur Zaalai with tops Peak of XIX Congress of the CPSU (5920 m) and Peak Peace (4900 m), and from the east - a parallel anonymous ridge - spur with tops of 5686 m and Peak CDSA (5120 m), serves as the basic and rendered most habitable jumping-off place for ascensions to Lenin Peak from the north. All glaciers of northern slopes of Zaalai Range have numerous inflows over-flooded Kyzylsu - main waterway of Alai valley. The majority of Zaalai glaciers long time was in a receding stage. For example, Lenin glacier in last twenty years has receded more than a kilometer, seriously changing conditions of approaches in the top circus. By present time deviation has stopped. The top of Lenin Peak rises above the same name glacier’s circus more than for 3000 m. Both northern and southern slopes reach steepness 45-550 and are cut up deep (up to 100 m) by cracks. Avalanches and ice landslides here is the often phenomenon. The basic breeds composing a pyramid of peak, as well as all northern slopes of Zaalai, are limestone, slates, and sandstones. Rocky ledges, bottom taluses and moraine adjournment testify it. The basic types of landscapes. In the natural relation Pamir as a whole gravitates to the Central Asia and concerns to the physic and geographical country of Central Asian uplands. Distinctions of landscapes in Pamir are defined mainly with high-altitude belt zone, distribution of east or western Pamir type relief, and also sharp reduction of quantity of deposits and increasing of continental climate from northwest to the east and a southeast. The vegetative cover is extremely rarefied, and in landscapes prevail naked rocky or covered with rubble and loam of a surface.
HISTORICAL STAGES OF CONUEST OF LENIN PEAK
In 1871 one of first Russian’s land explorers’ has penetrated in mysterious Alai. It was A.P.Fedchenko. Before this scientist, who has risen on pass Tengizbaj in Alai ridge, has opened the green valley in width up to 20 km, covered with steppe vegetation and behind it ridge of Snow Mountains. A.P.Fedchenko, has determined height of majestic peak in 25000 foots (7620 m), and has named it as Kaufman peak (the imperial deputy in Central Asia).
In 1928 has been organized complex expedition of the Academy of sciences of the USSR to area of Lenin peak. The primary goal of expedition was inspection of the central part of Zaalai Ridge, drawing up of the first authentic maps of this area. Expedition has been successfully completed by the first ascension to Lenin peak, carried out by its foreign participants: Alwein, Wine (Germany) and Schneider (Austria). The ascension has been undertaken from glacier Big Sauk-Dara which is flowing down from southern slopes of Lenin Peak and giving rise to the river of the same name. On September, 22 they have entered on a glacier and began to rise on its basic branch. On September, 23 they have gone to a saddle and by the evening the group has left to obviously expressed downturn in Zaalai Ridge (5820 m). In the morning climbers have begun rise to the east, but were soon convinced that are on a false way: from height of 6100 m they have seen, that the main top of a ridge lays in an opposite direction, in the west. It was necessary to go down downwards on a saddle and to spend there one more night. On September 25, at 8 o'clock. 20 minutes, climbers have begun ascension by east range of Lenin Peak. By 12 o'clock in the afternoon they have left on independently expressed shoulder of the range (6700 m). At 3 o'clock 30 minutes of day Alwein, Schneider and Wine have reached the supreme point of peak.
1929 researches of Pamir have been continued. Now the structure of expedition included the group of climbers headed by one of organizers of the Soviet mountaineering - by Nikolay Vasiljevich Krylenko. This group has made attempt of ascension to Lenin peak by route of 1928. Absence of experience of high-altitude ascensions and difficult meteorological conditions have not allowed to climbers carry out task. Krylenko has decided to go down from a saddle not on a way of rise, but the north, in Àlai valley. Having made this descent, Krylenko has crossed Zaalai Ridge in its highest part and, appearing on a glacier named by Lenin glacier, for the first time has examined close possible approaches to peak from the north.
In 1934 by this way to storm of Lenin Peak climbers of Red Army have moved. Conditions were more favorable, than at trailblazers. By this time has been constructed the automobile road which has connected Osh town with the city Khorog, so next day after departure climbers were in Alai valley. In the head there were altitude climbers: E.Abalakov who has subdued the supreme point of the USSR - Communism Peak (then Stalin's peak), V.Abalakov who has overcome the main top of Altai – Belukha Mt. Only three climbers from six, undertaking attempt of ascension, have established Lenin’s plaster bust at the top of peak and have left the first note of Soviet ascenders. Their names are K.Chernuha, V.Abalakov and I.Lukin.
In 1937 big Pamir expedition has been organized, whish had the purpose of ascension on all known at that time Soviet 7-thousanders: Communism Peak, Lenin Peak and Korgenevskoy Peak. Climbers have successfully coped with weather and high-altitude difficulties. Seven of them have written their names on a note enclosed in round at top.
In 1940 12 people have risen on a way of trailblazers.
In 1958 Soviet-Chinese gathering of the team has finished its work with mass ascension from the south through pass Krylenko. Earlier they were preparing for joint expedition to the Everest, which were not holding because of political grounds.
In 1967 it has successfully carried out alpiniada. 301 person (60 citizens of other states), by various routes (on four of them for the first time) have risen on top. Among them there were 20 women.
In 1969 climbers of thirteen countries have risen on top.
In 1968 slopes of peak have accepted the first parachute landing at height of 6100 m. All parachuters have safely landed. But the following stage - a group jump to pretopmost plateau at height of 7100 m - has terminated unsuccessfully. Four skilled parachuters were broke at a landing about rocks. The others, having landed in different places, have gone down downwards only in accompanying of climbers.
Lenin Peak was the first Soviet 7-thousander from which top the Soviet climbers have gone down on a ski. In 1968 descent was made by V.Suloev, and then in 1969 by brothers K. and B. Kletsko.
The first Soviet 7-thousander, subdued in winter season, was also Lenin Peak.
ACCESS ROADS TO LENIN PEAK
Approaches to Lenin Peak were defined by present time unequivocally enough. The basic initial base there is Osh town - the center of the same region in Kirghiz Republic.
Osh is one of the most ancient Central Asian cities. Exact date of its occurrence is unknown. Legends connect its basis with name Alexander the Great and even prophet Solomon (Suleiman). One of them says, that he conducted the army, and ahead drove a pair of bulls with a plough and when bulls have reached well-known mountain, Solomon has told: "Khosh!" (It means "enough"). So there was a name of the city which has appeared here. But any of legends does not explain neither the fact of occurrence of city, nor etymology of its name, but testifies about antiquity of agricultural occupations of inhabitants of these places.
Osh, undoubtedly, the most ancient in Kyrgyzstan and one of the ancient city centers of Central Asia. Occurrence of Osh is connected with settlement of ancient farmers of bronze epoch, found out on a southern slope of the mountain Sulejman considered sacred from time immemorial and storing the sacred certificates of ancient cults of the Islamic period.
By virtue of the accommodation, Osh was a point of crossing on trading caravan ways of an antiquity and Middle Ages from India and China to Europe. Here there passed one of branches of the Great Silk way - the major trading artery of the antiquity connecting the East with the West.
Osh was one of the religious Muslim centers of Central Asia. It is connected in many respects with taking place on territory of city Mountain Sulejman-Too with which legends and national fairy-tails allocate force, ability to cure any illnesses of pilgrims. Legends and national fairy-tails about Suleiman-Too
reveal an original cause of becoming of development of Osh, as Muslim religious center of Fergana valley. From X-XI c.c. and prior to the beginning of XX century at bottom Suleiman-Too, on its slopes and even at tops a lot of cult constructions were erected by Moslems: mazars, mosques, etc.
From Osh by modern Pamir road by car you can get in some hours in Alai valley forming northern bottom of Zaalai Range.
To get to bottom of Lenin peak from Osh, it is necessary turn to the west from settlement Sary-Tash on 182-nd km of Pamir road. Further, by good greider road by the right coast of the river Kyzylsu on 52-nd km get over on the iron bridge to the left coast. Then upwards on the river Achik-Tash (inflow of Kyzylsu) there is a country road which goes to Edelweiss Glade (approximately 3500 m) where the base camp is situated.
Now car transfer from Osh up to Edelweiss Glade takes 8-10 hours.
THE APPROACH TO CAMP ABC (4400 m)
The route begins from camp Achiktash in a direction of the Lukovaya glade (between rivers Korumduchukur and the river Achiktash, which is flowing down from the Lenin glacier) and pass of Travellers (1A, 4100 m) (1, 5-2 hours). The pass is situated in the east spur of the ridge departing to the north from Razdelnaya Top. The pass is focused from the southeast to northwest and connects Lenin glacier with sources of the river Korumduchukur. The pass allows bypassing foot obstacles under tongue of Lenin glacier.
The approach under pass begins from Lukovaya glade by path going along the right coast (according to the map) of the river Korumduchukur. Rise to the pass is carried out by small-poured slope with steepness up to 40 degrees.
From pass the path leaves abruptly downwards, and then turns to the west and after 500-meter travers goes down to the water stream, which flows in a pocket between the left board of a glacier and its moraine.
The route of overcoming of a stream varies from year to year. Some years ago it was possible to cross by stones or in water by foot. Last year the amount of water has sharply grown. It becomes especially appreciable during after-lunch time as a result of strengthened thawing of glacier. In this connection the ferry through water barrier is carried out by two ways. The first way is a ferry by horses. But it is also becomes unsafe at the end of August. The second way is transfer by foot through the left inflow by stones, rise on a lateral moraine of glacier and overcoming of the ice bridge with the subsequent exit on the left board of glacier.
Further the way lies on the center of glacier. Rise up on glacier not abrupt, however long (2-4 hours), and height is already about 4000 meters. The camp 1 is situated at height of 4400 m on the moraine of glacier opposite to majestic 3-kilometer’s wall of Lenin Peak.
Mentioned below routes cannot be used as the train diagram since they do not take into account the period of acclimatization, and also there are not reflected in the days of rest that necessary for ascenders in completion of physical strengths. Thus, these data should be modified by each group individually, according to the acclimatization program of ascending and a physical condition of group.
TO THE EAST RIDGE THROUGH LIPKINS'S ROCK
Day 1. An exit from camp "4200" in a southeast direction to Lipkin rock. Rise by one of its lobby consisting of strongly destroyed rocks. In some places separate stones have frozen deeply in ice. At passage of this part it is necessary to be careful of rock falls.The first camp on a slope is established in area of dump under northern edge of top, at height about 5200 m. On a way between camps "4200" and "5300" 6-8 hours are spent.
Day 2. The further way on the south - on continuation of a snow ridge of Lipkin’s rock; from the east there is an edge of the ice-fall.
The steepness of rise achieves 50-55 degrees. In some places there are latent cracks can be meet. Deep snow avalanches are probable.
The exit to firn plateau, laying between the last extremity of east ridge of Lenin Peak above glacial dump, is carried out under northern rocky ridge. The wide eaves (up to 150 m.) deduces on East Ridge. Approximately in the middle of eaves the camp "5800" is established. On a way between camps "5200" and "5800" 5-6 hours are spent.
Day 3. From camp "5800" route within the first 1-2 hours passes on eaves which are looking like a wide plateau on a direction of East Ridge. The ridge is covered with the fine frozen together talus, and in some places with large fragments of stones. Technical difficulties it does not represent, however it is overcome with the big pressure in connection with big discharging of air.
On a way from camp "5800" up to camp "6400" it is spent till 6 o'clock.
Day 4. From camp "6400" way goes by wide, gently sloping and rising East Ridge, which has three insignificant differences. A snow is rather dense, not failing. For 5 hours of movement the height about 500 m is collected. The camp is established at height 6900, at bottom of a topmost cone, in small downturn of the ridge.
Day 5. From camp "6900" the ascenders continue the further way without backpacks. The steepness of a snow slope grows, reaching before the top of the greatest value for all ti
me of the rise. It is so-called "comma", which is overcome with crampons and the alternate insurance. The snow is strongly condensed with winds, failure is probable.
Northern part of top of Lenin Peak is reached in 5
hours after an exit from camp "6900". The way to a mark "7134" from point of "7127" does not represent any difficulties and occupies about 30 minutes.
BY THE WESTERN RIDGE THROUGH RAZDELNAYA TOP
From glacial camp "4200" way goes upwards by the western source of Lenin glacier.
Day 1. Rise upwards on a snow-ice wall up to a mark of 4880 m. The basic difficulty on a wall part of the way between camps is the friable snow with depth in the bottom part of 15-20 cm and in top - 25-30 cm, and also a plenty of cracks (closed in July) where frequently it is possible to find the fixed safety cord. Further the route turns to the right up to height of 5300 m and, traversing and crossing avalanche cones (which are usual in this place), goes down approximately on 100 meters and passes on th
e big snow plateau up to camp 2 (5300 ì). In bright weather this part of the way named "frying-pan" is very tiresome because of heat. The camp is established at the bottom of east spur of Razdelnaya Top. The average steepness of rise on a wall part makes 30-35 degrees. Movement in all extent of route is carried out in crampons. Duration of rise is 5-7 hours.
Day 2. Rise to the western ridge passes on the snow powdered ice slope with cracks with their general extent of 400-500 m, and steepness up to 40 degrees. Movement is carried out in crampons. The slope leaves on the flat snow ridge conducting from the east to Razdelnaya Top. On slopes of the ridge on ways to Razdelnaya Top the parts covered with deep powder-like snow, laying on slo
pe with steepness up to 40 degrees, can be met. Overcoming of these parts causes significant expenditure of time and forces.
Before the exit to Razdelnaya Top there is a 60-meter site of naked ice. The top represents wide and round platform with exits under the snows of a fine talus.
From the top to the southwest the ridge to Dzerjinskiy Peak departs and on the southeast to the western ridge of Lenin Peak departs too. In a site of this ridge there is a downturn up to 6100 m. The camp 3 is established in this saddle. Duration of rise is 5-6 hours.
Day 3. From camp 3 by the western ridge in width of 300 meters and length 6-7 km with a steepness of a slope on the average 15-20 degrees route conducts to the top (10 hours). Very often here storm winds of the western direction are blown and ascending becomes impossible. The surface is formed by the frozen together snow which has been cut up by wind firm as a stone. It is probable to establish intermediate Camp at height of 6800 m on an enormous plateau, because often on the way back there is not light time enough.
The part from 6800 m up to the top is passed without special work by wide ridge with steepness 15-20 degrees. Then begins the third (under the account), well expressed rise, coming to an end of top. This rise has extent of 200 m, steepness 30-35 degrees. The bottom part consists from the easy, destroyed calcareous rocks; the top part is combined by stronger breeds.
After the maximum point of the third rise the ridge extends, forming at height between 7000-7100 m, snow plateau in length in 800-900 m on opposite side of which the snow-covered dome of top of Lenin Peak ups.
