Khan-Tengri Peak (7010 m)

 

Area description

Historical stages of conquest of Khan-Tengri Peak

Even recently, one hundred years ago, Tien-Shan presented itself riddle for European geographical science. The Information about this distant country was culled, mainly, from tales of Chinese merchants and Buddha pilgrims. Only in 1856-57 yy famous Russian geographer Semyonov has opened for European science this area. From Kok-Djara valley Semyonov rose up on mounting pass of the same name. Unusual by its enormous panorama was opened to his sight: "When we got about one hour in the afternoon to top of the mountain passage, we were blinded by unexpected show. Straight to south from us towered the most majestic from ever visible to me mountain range. Just in the middle of these giants towered one, sharply between them separating on its stupendous height, snow-white pointed pyramid, which seemed from the top of mounting pass exceeding height of the other tops in twice" 

1902. Two expeditions, nearly simultaneously, move to heart of the Celestial mountains. One of them was expedition Sapozhnikova, and the other – of well- known German geographer-climber Mercbaher. In spite of all attempts nobody couldn’t approach downhill. Searching of elusive Peak was left for next year. 

1903. The Mercbaher Expedition, accompanied by large number of porters, rose up on Inylichek glacier. Observations spoke that exactly here it is necessary to search Khan-Tengri. Here is already much unceasing, quick walking by snow. Coming down from ridge spurs limit visibility. What are behind them? Or maybe travelers will be disillusioned again, and riddle of Peak will remain not solved? But nearly suddenly the sparkling snow top appears. Several quick steps more and marble pyramid of "Ruler of Spirits" rises upwards. 

 

First attempt

1929. The Expedition of Pogrebetski goes by mounting pass Tyuz by very deep snow and falls into Inylichek valley. Enormous caravan of the horses moves by glacier South Inylichek. Attempt to get through lake Mercbahera to North Inylichek was not managed. Continued the motion by glacier South Inylichek and, in spite of bad weather, for the first time reached the foots of Peak.

1930. Expedition of Pogrebetski near the foothills of Peak conducts the detailed reconnaissance of south-west, south and east slopes. Only real variant seemed to them were the south-west slope, its buttresses and south-west range. 

1931. Horses and porters expedition of Pogrubetski selects in Przhevalisk. Select the high-altitude porters is not simply. Need harebrained, disciplined people. Many of them scare the purpose of the ascent - Kan-Too. The Expedition certainly advances to Peak’s foothill by South Inylichek glacier. Here is already first high-altitude camp is. Look at Khan-Tengri from high-altitude camp (5200): "Enormous pyramidal mass on that side of firn field - is Khan-Tengri. From this side it has took quite other outlines and does not look like that peak, what we got accustomed to see". 

 

September 10. Pogrebeckiy with his command reaches the tops of Khan-Tengri Peak.. 

Routes

 

Personal expedition equipment

• Snow shovel 
• Hi altitude tents for intermediate camps 
• Sunglasses 
• First-aid Kit 
• Headlamp with extra batteries 
• Cooking equipment 
• Multifuel stove 
• Sun-blocking cream Ice-axe 
• Plastic double boots for snow climbing 
• Crampons 
• Teleskoping sticks 
• Seat harness with locking carabiner 
• Rope (not more than 8 mm) 
• Sleeping bag 
• Sleeping pad